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Hand Feeding Kits

Hand feeding kits is a time consuming task and isn't always successful - but if you're forced to do it, the below tips will help. I've recieved a lot of e-mails regarding does that don't "sit with their litter" or "ignore their litter" - well guess what? Rabbits are not like dogs or cats. They will not sit in the nest box with their young all day long. A doe will visit her nest two, maybe three times a day to nurse. Other than that - she'll leave them alone. A healthy kit will be warm, active and have a nice full looking tummy. A kit that is being neglected will be cold, sluggish, have wrinkly or baggy skin and a small tummy. So please, before you decide to take over the position as "mother" - make for certain that the doe is not caring for her litter. It's best if they stay with the doe if she is properly caring for them. Okay, with that said - on with the instructions...

First of all, you want to get the kits to have some of the colostrum, the mother's first milk, because it is full of essential bacteria, vitamins and nutrients for the newborns. Take the doe, flip her on her back and let each kit suckle until their belly is quite firm and full. This will take some time. If this method seems to be working for you and your doe - then stick with it. Mother's milk is best. You'll need to do this at least twice, maybe three times a day.

Hand feeding the litter is another option, but as stated before, isn't always successful and can be a lot of hard work.

If you choose to use a bottle, you should use a pet bottle made for kittens, this size will work well. I personally prefer to use a small syringe with out the needle as I have had more success this way - and they tend to suckle better. Also you'll need to get some milk replacer. There are three suggestions below, but I've found that the canned kitten milk replacer has proved to be most successful.

  • Suggestion  #1
    canned or powdered milk replacer for kittens
  • Suggestion  #2
    Fresh, straight goat's milk
  • Suggestion  #2
    1/2 C. evaporated milk
    1/2 C. water
    1 egg yolk
    1 T. Corn syrup

Making the hole in the bottle is a little tricky: if it is too small, the babies do not have the power to suck the milk out of the bottle; if it is too large, the milk may come out so fast that it may choke the babies. 

Test the suitability by using very hot water. If hot water streams from the hole, it is too big, the rubber nipple is ruined; if it needs assistance to squeeze to release the hot water, it is too small, try again; if the hot water drips from the hole, it is just right. It is a trial-and-error process, the hole that works well is a small cross cut with a toenail clipper. 

You need to feed the kits approximately every 6 hours for the first 2 weeks, then every 8 hours the 3rd week, then every 12 hours the 4th week.

After feedings each baby is stimulated to urinate by gently stroking from its middle to its genitals with a warm rag. You will need to do this every time you feed until the kits are at least one week old. But make sure you're outside and the kit is pointing away from you - those little guys are pretty powerful!

One of the biggest problems with hand-feeding is aspiration pneumonia. Aspiration pneumonia occurs when milk gets on the lungs. You can tell if there is milk in the lungs by a "clicking" sound as the wet lungs stick together. After each feeding we listen carefully for this clicking. Anyone found "clicking" gets turned upside down and gets a back massage. Once the babies are older and have learned the art of bottle feeding, the problem lessens.

Babies are ready to test solid foods at about two weeks old. Pellets, oatmeal and hay are good choices for first foods, and make sure that water is available at all times. Do not  - and I stress this strongly - feed them any veggies, fruits or other goodies that you think * might * be good for them. A young kit has a very sensitive digestive system - and introducing garbage into their diet can cause them to have diarrhea or even muccoid enteritis and could even kill them.

 

Article written by Mindy Borer
Rabbit Registrar #RR473
www.TranquilAcresRabbitry.com

 

 

Tranquil Acres Rabbitry
Netherland Dwarfs
Archbold, Ohio
419-572-9520